MUMBAI :

The northeastern state of Sikkim may beckon road trippers for many reasons – its sunrises, alpine meadows, stunning views and tranquil villages. But for lawyer Dareer Malik, who had visited Sikkim earlier, there was one more thing he wanted to do: drive up to the Gurudongmar Lake in his Mahindra Thar. Now, the picturesque Gurudongmar Lake at 17,899 ft, isn’t just the highest lake in India, but also one of the highest lakes in the world! “Everyone has a bucket list and my friends and I, always wanted to drive to this highest freshwater lake in our own vehicles. I was really looking forward to this trip in my Thar. Post work, we would discuss plans, and finally, our adventurous journey came about,” recalls Malik. 

Considering Malik, had also done other long distance drives in his Thar before this one, he shares how his mother took to driving this vehicle with ease and how it grew to become their vehicle of choice. “Our family, especially my mother, loves the old Thar. It was a dream come true to drive it from day one, and I feel this vehicle can take us to places no other vehicle can go to,” says Malik. While some may not regard the Thar as a vehicle typically suited for long-distance drives and also not best suited for more than two passengers, Malik says, “It is a hardcore off-roader. There are a few compromises you make, but with some efficient packing, a family of five can fit their luggage in it fairly easily.” 

Before driving up to Gurudongmar Lake, there are a few important things to bear in mind. For anyone embarking on this road trip, the first thing that they need is a permit. For Gurudongmar Lake, permits are given only to vehicles with a high ground clearance. “Yes, that’s mandatory. Not all kinds of vehicles are permitted in that area and mostly only SUVs and cars with high ground clearance and higher cubic capacity are allowed),” says Malik.

Malik’s group took the STKK - Krishnanagar route, which covers 85kms of two-laned roads that are easy to drive on. “We started from Kolkata, then crossed Ranaghat, followed by Krishnanagar, Berhampur, Farakka, Malda, Raiganj, Dalkhola, Islampur, then to Siliguri and finally, Gangtok. As they drove on further, the uphill drive wasn’t devoid of challenges. From the roads getting steeper to the curves getting sharper, they experienced it all. “When you drive here you must expect to navigate the narrow and steep roads of Sikkim, along with frequent stretches of rough roads due to landslides. But if you have good vehicle control, it helps,” says Malik.

At times, when visibility was low, Malik only took to the road during certain driving windows. “We planned our journey in the mountains only during daytime in order to minimize risk and also to take in the beautiful views. Usually, we started early in the morning, and reached our destinations before sunset. The roads in the mountains can get risky post sunset; therefore one should avoid driving after sundown,” cautions Malik. 

With the increase in elevation the terrain changed. “We went from plains to forests to high altitude routes, just like in Ladakh. It was fun to experience it all.” Malik was also happy with the Thar’s performance. “Thar being a body-on-frame 4x4 SUV can tackle rough roads with ease. It has a good suspension for driving over broken road surfaces and negotiating difficult terrain. It’s large wheels can climb over rocks which is difficult to do with small cars. Besides, the 2.5-liter CRDe engine is a reliable one that never runs out of breath and it is also one that can easily be fixed by local mechanics.” “Our Thar was an older one without some of the newer safety features that are known to enhance one’s driving, but even then our SUV proved to be extremely stable while cornering on those narrow and steep roads of North Sikkim.”

On YouTube and other Social Media, the one thing several adventure drivers will tell you is how tough the final approach to the lake is. The last few meters to Gurudongmar Lake involves a steep off-road climb and many vehicles struggle to do the climb due to less oxygen in the air. “The roads overall are not in the best of shape due to rocks and dirt roads. The last few meters to the lake especially is a steep off road climb, which can be tough for smaller vehicles, but my friends in other vehicles made it too,” says Malik. “Of course, the experience at one of the highest freshwater lakes in the world was something else. At 17,800 ft this lake was not only surrounded by snow-capped peaks and strong, freezing winds, but it’s beauty was also truly captivating,” recalls Malik.

Besides Gurudongmar Lake, Malik and his group crossed several beautiful viewpoints on the way, visiting Yumthang valley, Changu Lake, Nathu La, and Baba Mandir. "Each location was breathtaking. We stopped at Thangu Valley and also at the world’s highest Dosa Point… highly recommended,” says Malik. 

“While no body experienced any breathing difficulties during the drive, we did experience nausea and headaches while coming down from Gurudongmar Lake, as our descent was quite fast. This can be easily avoided if one is careful enough and takes necessary breaks by properly acclimatising one’s body,” explains Malik.” What about those who’re heading there for the first time? “First-timers also needn’t worry,” says Malik. “We had no issues with Google Maps as there is only one road, with proper signage everywhere. Also, locals are super helpful in guiding you, in case you’re lost,” assures Malik. And that was how Malik’s scenic drive and high altitude adventure with his group concluded as he drove back home with a treasure trove of memories, calm and serenity, after visiting the highest lake in India.